Absolutely Fabulous in China
"Passport, tickets, money!" Wouldn't it be absolutely fabulous if that was all a co-infected, inhibitor-prone Severe Haemophilia A patient had to remember when travelling?
Unfortunately the list is a little longer: factor; HIV tablets; precautionary medicines such as antibiotics; visas; specialised travel insurance; letters from the Centre declaring "fit to travel" and "this patient is carrying needles and syringes, confiscation is a severe risk to person's health"; ice packs; details of local centres; errr... anything else? Oh yes, nearly forgot... passport, tickets, money.
Around the world
I had managed to barter an eight month around the world trip with Cardiff Haemophilia Centre (Jan - Sept 1999) and, as was only right, there had been a bit of give and take on both sides. They knew that I was going to go, as it could be my last shot before becoming physically unable and, in turn, I had restricted myself mainly to 'first world' countries, staying with friends for half of the trip and a stop in Australia where they knew the consultant personally and could organise blood tests.
An idea too tempting to resist
However, the first part was staying with friends in Hong Kong and the idea of going into China for a couple of weeks was too tempting to resist. My friends provided me with all the valuable information. A visa was needed by every European to enter China but was easily obtained by surrendering my passport for a couple of days to their trusted travel agent who had arranged the trip. So several days later, with my treatment surrounded by icepacks in my carry-on backpack, I got on board the best 747 Air China could muster up, bound for Beijing; well, after all, it is their most lucrative route.
A half tidy looking Westerner
On board, all "aliens" had to fill out a customs form with less stupid questions than on the US visa waiver form but nevertheless with the killer "are you bringing in any blood products into China?" Oh why couldn't recombinant have been rolled out 6 months earlier? My conscience could have been clear but I lied, ticked NO and hoped that customs weren't going to be interested in a half tidy looking Westerner. Indeed they weren't. The rather forbidding airport terminal, reminiscent of the most atmospheric cold war spy novel, containing the immigration and custom points were far more interested in the businessmen from Hong Kong, who were likely to be bringing in illegal pornographic material.
After a look at my passport, a check of my hotel booking and a lot of bureaucratic form filling, which is all the rage in China, I was waved through without even having my luggage searched. I knew it was a good idea to shave and put on tidy clothes. Even my mother would have been satisfied.
Busy days
Two hours later, with my factor lording it in the refrigerator of a 4 star businessman's hotel next to the lobsters, I was sitting in the lounge sipping jasmine tea and working out where to visit. Over the next few days: Tiananmen Square, the Winter Palace, the Forbidden Palace, the Great Wall and, as it was February, the Chinese New Year celebrations were all enjoyed.
Quiet days
To give my knees the best chance of survival and keep them bleed free, the busy and tiring day trips out of the city were spaced out between quieter days. On some I just stayed in the hotel reading books, testing out the Chinese version of the in-room Corby trouser press and watching the Simpsons dubbed into Mandarin. On others I walked slowly around the city, people watching, tea drinking and getting the feel of an entirely different culture. A culture where, when I limped onto a bus, a frail 65(?) year old doubled up man would immediately get up out of his seat and insist that I sit down. A culture where a street sweeper stops you and insists on giving your knee and leg a gentle massage for 2 minutes to help you walk more comfortably; indeed, I did walk more comfortably for the next day and still remember to this day whereabouts on the leg he pinched. A culture where a Westerner was still an unusual sight and I was stared at wherever I went; it was nice to be stared at for reasons other than for walking like Frankenstein's monster.
Vivid memories
After 10 days of fantastic and memorable sightseeing, I took my life in my hands again and caught the return Air China plane back to Hong Kong. Am I glad that I did it? Yes. Would I do it again? Yes. Would I advise other people to do it? The answer is yes but obviously travelling to what is considered a difficult and risky country for people with Haemophilia, your preparations have to be more thought out and fully discussed with your Centre. I was very lucky to be travelling on my own, to have friends who could advise me on the little things that can be so important and, thanks to the fantastic high exchange rate, I could afford to stay in good accommodation and eat good food. Yes, it was risky, but I had enough factor to mollify nearly all bleeds and travel insurance if not. However the sight of the Great Wall made it a risk worth taking. It really did live up to all the hype and remains one of my most vivid memories from the eight month journey. Well, along with camping with a Brown snake in the bush at Ayers Rock, but that is another story.
Happy travelling
'Diggleby Fuddlewick' (aged 36)
